Thirty years ago, the seaside town of Puerto Natales didn’t have a single traffic light, but it was already the gateway to Torres del Paine – even though many of those on a Patagonia expedition were shoestring backpackers who thumbed their way to Chile’s most famous national park. Most of them stayed in town only […]

When I first saw Ushuaia, in the summer of 1979, not many foreign visitors were enjoying Patagonia adventure cruises there. Argentine and Chile had only recently avoided war over several small islands in the famous Beagle Channel and, in a seaside city with only about 11,000 inhabitants – it has more than five times that […]